District 12 in southern Tehran is the real Tehran. If the rest of the city is black and white, District 12 is in color. And while Valiasr Avenue may be the capital’s spine, District 12 is its beating heart. There’s a world to explore down there and your whole imagination to get lost in as you contemplate the history that part of town has witnessed. And among the most intriguing parts is 30 Tir Street, chock full of culture, diverse places of worship, and more recently, food trucks. 203